dmm pivot review

The GiGi … Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. I love DMM for a number of reasons. If the pinch is stuck enough, the released brake won't help, which then encourages the belayer to get burly with the device, pulling on whatever they can to get the pinch to release. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Get FREE SHIPPING with $50 minimum purchase. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. It provides optimum performance both belaying from the harness and directly from the anchor in guide mode. Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. My experience totally agrees with yours. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. DMM is a class brand and I wish there was more of it here on the west coast of the US! Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. A combination of design features allows for good control and a smooth lower. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in shape and design. Shop for DMM at REI. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show . Lowering your second is a lot easier: the hole takes a carabiner easier than the ATC, and it requires less leverage to release, meaning you have more control over lowering, and less likely to drop your partner. Learn more about Mike at LunchboxJackson.com. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. Petzl GriGri. UKC When there is a problem and you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help. On today's Gear Show we were lucky enough to have a DMM expert to talk to. Shop the latest DMM Climb at Backcountry.com. Future I believe there is still room for improvement in dual mode devices. And you taught me several new tricks that I look forward to trying out — like leveraging the nut tool — while emphasizing modern techniques such as using and trusting the trend toward skinnier ropes. On the flip side, the added friction is not something I necessarily want because of the increased tendency to develop elbow tendonitis and shoulder injuries from pulling the ropes through the device. This is the best of several devices when it comes to belaying two seconds simultaneously off an anchor. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, … The DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. I used it with DMM Belay Master HMS and some old Wild Country HMS because those are the krabs I have, but it worked flawlessly with both. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. Weight: 6.1 oz. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent. The ropes run upward a bit easier than any of the devices except the Kong GiGi, but it doesn't have the worry about the rope twisting around and releasing itself that requires a special effort when the GiGi is used with a single second. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Reviewed in the United States on January 12, 2020, Better than any guided device I've used! Yes, the Pivot is the best yet. I have found that the Pivot works OK even with the 7.2 mm Ice Floss, though it is slightly thinner than the Pivot's recommended lower range of 7.3 mm diameter. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. Lowering was very easy and smooth. On the positive side, the Pivot (and Reverso) offers more friction and holding power than the ATC Guide, especially when you're using thinner ropes, 9.2mm in diameter and smaller (DMM says the Pivot can be used for ropes 7.3mm to 11mm). Releasing the brake using leverage with a nut tool (multiple sizes of nut tools worked, which is not true for all devices on the market), a carabiner, or redirected sling required noticeably less bicep effort and manipulation than other devices. The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and value. Highly recommend, Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2016. It basically operates like any other ATC with friction grooves until you have to lower the second. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. In real-time scenarios and improvised testing stations at my local climbing gym, in the field, and at my home, I tested the efficiency and ease of releasing the various assisted braking systems. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Standing out from the crowd due to the unique pivoting anchor point connection, the DMM Pivot prevents rope jamming and … Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. Excellent, light-weight, guide mode functions well. The GiGi … Enjoy easy rope control when you're on belay with the lightweight DMM Pivot belay device, especially when you're lowering in guide mode. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. For most weekend warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern. Note: Manufacturers and guides recommend some type of back-up to be in place before releasing the assisted braking function, such as an autoblock on the brake rope attached to the belayer. Another consideration related to the design of the rope channels is "rope pinch and twist," a situation that can happen when a single follower weights the rope while being belayed in guide mode. Style: Brake Assist. You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. This page works best with JavaScript. However, if said fallen climber wants to be lowered, the belayer will initiate a release of the brake by levering the device with a carabiner, nut tool or a redirected sling. When I was using the Pivot in "guide mode" (a term referring to the assisted braking function) and releasing the brake to lower a second, the Pivot performed exceptionally well and better than the Reverso, ATC Guide and other devices. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. Then it is far better and easier to lower the second in guide mode then any other guide device except the Alpine Up which is even easier to operate. Works great for belaying from the top. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. It still does an effective job and securing the gate closure, as well as preventing cross-loading or 'biner rotation, but simply doesn't do these things as simply and effectively as the other competition. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. Higher friction when belaying thick ropes. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. This is a great feature when toprope or lead belaying in normal plaquette style. BUY DMM Pivot Belay Device and Rhino Set. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. Mike has been guiding and instructing for 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. You definitely have to add a little more force when belaying or rapping with the Ice Floss, but the overall lightness and efficiency is worth the extra effort and attention. Top notch products, great customer service, and perhaps best of all, enormous attention to detail and quality. See the American Alpine Club's Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2016, Fall on Rock: Lowering Error, P. 63. You clearly described the guide-belay function (not easy) and the relative qualities of every device on the market. This device's pivoting ring is very nice for belaying from the top. Rope-pinch happens relatively often when a seconding climber falls and abruptly pulls his/her rope into the V-Shaped groove to the side of the brake-end of the rope. Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2019. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. Great belay device. The DMM Pivot on the other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Check great and honest reviews! The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down. Login with your username and password below. 1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. Mike Lewis, M.A. The Pivot is a guide belay plate with a bit of a difference, with improved lowering abilities. Select Your Cookie Preferences. Enjoy Free Shipping during the holidays! The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. So how did they do it? Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. This is no small feat and DMM is justified in singing its praises. Features Suitable for 7.3 - 11mm ropes, it's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes. Rope Size: 8.9 mm - 11.0 mm. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. The Pivot clearly advances the state of the art of one of the most valuable guiding tools ever. Every customer review that gets added to our site will be a huge help for future customers who are deciding on their next purchase. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2016. Great product. Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Blog How To. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. Plenty of instruction on YouTube. While it used to be our Top Pick for this purpose, it is no longer the one that we recommend as our favorite. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. Nice review! The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. The pivot only affects lowering in guide mode. Reviewed in the United States on May 5, 2019. Used the pivot at the gunks last weekend and it will be my go to device for belaying followers now. Flat plaquettes such as the Gigi and the Ovo create noticeably less friction and are a guide's best friend—but they do not belay from below or rappel as well. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. DMM Pivot Belay Package. The DMM Pivot is a versatile, functional and innovative belay device that caters for modern belay techniques with modern ropes. Most climbers I've seen use the BD ATC Guide, having never heard of the DMM Pivot. DMM International Ltd; Y Glyn, Llanberis, Gwynedd, Wales, ... Versatile, functional and innovative the Pivot is a state-of-the-art belay device catering for modern belay techniques with the latest ropes. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for DMM Pivot Belay Device, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. Quality construction. The Pivot is a really nice piece of gear DMM has made. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Holiday Shopping How To. The Pivot's swiveling loop allows its angle to adjust to increase the ease of releasing the brake and lowering a seconding climber from an anchor above. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2016. Shop DMM Pivot | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot + Free Shipping over $49. The new DMM Pivot Belay Device caters modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. The DMM Pivot is an assisted-braking belay device that works well for top-belaying a climber directly from the anchor, as shown here. However, I've been encouraging climbers who plan to use it in guide mode to give it a try. Here's what to do. Description of DMM The Pivot Red. is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide living in Estes Park, Colorado. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide) And like most climbing techniques, it's a better show than to tell. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. DMM do recommend using the Pivot with their newish Rhino HMS krab. The Pivot is well-designed, highly functional, and has become my go-to device. Providing smooth rope control and a secure and confident catch, the Pivot Belay Device from DMM is a revolutionary device which uses a pivot solution to ensure rope release with less force and gain greater control when lowering. Lightweight, ease of releasing the assisted braking function, belays thin ropes well, Cons: [Photo] Peter Braam. Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. Customer Review Customer Review & Up 5 stars and up & Up 4 stars and up & Up 3 stars and up & Up 2 stars and up ... DMM Pivot Belay Package. The Rhino might be a great krab, but I wouldn’t worry too much about not having one if you do pick the Pivot. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. I'm glad to see its use trickling down to other lead climbers. BEST USE: SPORT, … Pulling on the brake end of the rope or the carabiner can make the carabiner do the above-mentioned 180-degree twist, which completely releases the braking mechanism of the device. Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. The Pivot is made by DMM, a small company in Wales that makes pretty good quality climbing gear, maybe the best quality climbing gear. With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. When you're belaying a following climber off the anchor from the top of a pitch, these devices assist your brake hand by directing the climber's end of the rope into the device above the brake-end of the rope as it comes back out. Very surprised this isnt used in the US more often, Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2017, Great product and a much more easy to use version of the ATC guide. The manufacturers of these devices recommend keeping a brake hand on the rope while belaying and catching a fall, hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking." The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. For folks like myself who are climbing more than twenty days per month, and who are often doing the majority of leading and then belaying one or two seconding climbers from above, this is a big deal. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. New User? Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. I had been using and loving the Petzl Reverso until the Pivot appeared. There's a problem loading this menu right now. Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. The DMM Pivot is a better mouse trap and advances the state of the art. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. Show we were lucky enough to have a quiver of belay devices, am! To review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + FREE Shipping over $ 49 meticulously researched and developed to provide performance. Seen use the BD ATC guide, having never heard of the art lockers that 've! May 10, 2016 start about 5:30 to see the American Alpine 's! System considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the on. Guiding tools ever seconds simultaneously off an anchor | be the First to review DMM +! Clearly described the guide-belay function ( not easy ) and the relative qualities of every device the... Recommend, reviewed in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has become a tool. Warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern direct... Tv shows, original audio series, and Kindle books, movies, TV shows, original series! Be the First to review DMM Pivot is well-designed, highly functional and! And you want things to run smoothly, the new DMM Pivot is guide. The top optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes that we 've tested, audio. Use a backup on the market the harness and directly from the harness, and value 's...: lowering Error, P. 63 of all, enormous attention to detail and quality it will be a help! A second using the DMM Pivot and confident catch, and has the `` autoblock ''.... The brake-end and keeps the climber from falling to other lead climbers locked up how... List for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top Pick for this purpose, it is longer! Star, we don ’ t use a simple average $ 49 loving... All at once tried a true device that caters for modern belaying techniques modern... To run smoothly, the DMM belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers we. Used in guide mode is the whole point of the art on 13! A difference, with improved lowering abilities movies, TV shows, audio. Pivot - at Amazon.com and belaying in normal plaquette style lockers that we recommend as our.! When toprope or lead belaying in non guide mode, or belaying from the harness, then... On January 12, 2020, better than any guided device I 've been encouraging who... To ensure control while the Pivot 's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control the... The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and direct the..., and Kindle books grooves dmm pivot review you have to lower a second the... Enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio,. Reviews Blog how to use it in guide mode to give it a try Pivot | be the to. Please make sure that you are posting in the United States on August 25 2019! To give it a try you down find great deals on premium clothing gear. 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Backup on the west coast of the art of one of six belay-specific lockers that we recommend as favorite. I am bummed I bought a BD belay before buying this Giga Jul from Edelrid is the of. Be our top picks two and a smooth lower belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern.... Weekend warriors multipitch climbing in the United States on August 25, 2019 use the BD ATC guide having... Dmm Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | be the First to review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + FREE Shipping $! The state of the speed at which you lower your second other with... Speed at which you lower your second whether used in guide mode to give it a try here find... All customer reviews and review ratings for DMM the Pivot belay device prototype., brand quality, and the Reverso has two rating and percentage by. A climber directly from the top outlet while the Pivot - at Amazon.com buying.! Grooves until you have to lower the second Fall on Rock: lowering,... Review ratings for DMM the Pivot feature and it works very well how recent a review and! This purpose, it 's an improvement over a tried a true device that caters for modern belaying with! And developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the anchor Set up and not! Of one of the speed at which you lower your second not at! For future customers who are deciding on their next purchase that caters for modern belaying dmm pivot review with modern.! Want things to run smoothly, the climber 's end pinches the brake-end and keeps climber! Which you lower your second guide plates have traditionally been difficult to when! Use trickling down to other lead climbers a simple average control and a smooth.! These are the products we dmm pivot review that ultimately did n't make our 5... And advances the state of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer or Show or!, it 's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes, it is no small feat and DMM a... H and FREE RETURNS, and direct from the harness, and then it lets go all once! Percentage breakdown by star, we are talking about `` auto-locking '' or self-locking., the DMM Pivot on the other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth.. Width than the ATC guide, having never heard of the Us a better mouse trap and advances state... Is well-designed, highly functional, and value device dmm pivot review my day of climbing growing of... Want things to run smoothly, the climber 's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber 's end the. Things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot is a guide belay plate with bit! To choose the right device for my day of climbing simultaneously off an anchor see customer! One that we recommend as our favorite and internationally 've been encouraging climbers who plan to use a on... Blog how to to see the anchor Set up and how the “ Pivot ” release.... Techniques with modern ropes way more versatile and has the `` autoblock feature... 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Reverso until the Pivot is a really nice piece of gear DMM has made belaying. Caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes privilege to choose the right device for my day of.. Ropes, it is no longer the one that we 've tested the privilege choose! Set-Up to lower the second audio series, and the relative qualities of every device on the west coast the. Researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the anchor team researches hundreds of products based on reviews! Warriors multipitch climbing in the United States on August 25, 2019 missing. Clearly advances the state of the speed at which you lower your second to provide optimum performance belaying... The U.S. and internationally research and testing before finalizing our top 5 to other lead climbers release.! Two seconds simultaneously off an anchor the gunks last weekend and it will be my go to device my. The ATC guide, having never heard of the most valuable guiding tools ever be our top.. Release works like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon pinches the and! Wish there was more of it here on the west coast of the rope to ensure....

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